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Sri Lanka: Back for the First Time, Part III


We decided to take the train up to Kandy from Colombo to explore what the Sri Lankan transport system was like. It was interesting and not bad. Maybe it helped that we went in first class but it also wasn't one of those trains you commonly stumble across in pictures with everyone crammed on the top and sides of the carts - possibly because it was a cross-country train heading to Trincomalee. First class in these trains are like the standard class you get in the UK but I think what made it first class is you got served food and hot drinks, compared to what you may or may not get in the other cabins. Air conditioning is also a plus. There can be quite funny moments when you're given the coffee/tea in normal porcelain mugs, on a swaying train - it becomes quite a learned skill to not spill anything.

My Passions Fruit | Kandy

In the adjoining carriage area, there is a great place to do some proper sightseeing. The landscapes are beautifully green, mountainous and lush, where if you keep you eyes peeled you can go past some of the well-known mountains/rocks such as Bible Rock - a mountain in the shape of an open book/Bible.

My Passions Fruit | Kandy

Our first stop was Peradeniya, which is a suburb of the city of Kandy. It is well-known for Sri Lanka's Botanical Gardens which are amazing to visit - certainly if you're into horticulture. It's also known for a lot of the tea estates. As mentioned in a previous post, when heading upcountry, the roads become a lot more circular, climbing round and up mountains, so have a sick bag ready.

My Passions Fruit | Peradeniya

We headed to the Rothschild Tea Estate, which is thought to have manufactured the first tea in what was then, Ceylon. The factory itself is rustic and has a very colonial look about it - unsurprisingly - and we were lucky enough to get a private tour, seeing how the tea is made into what us Brits love (for the most part).

My Passions Fruit | Rothschild Estate

After being shown how to expertly test the taste of the tea (not very well either especially as my cousin found out, but I think it was just her excuse to slyly drink the tea), we were taken for a proper cup of the native stuff and then got a driver to continue onto Kandy.

My Passions Fruit | Sri Lanka - Tea!

On the way up and nearby the tea estate, we stopped off for some much needed food and I cannot remember the place's name! Either way, it was a place on the side of a road which looked like it could almost be dropping off a cliff - which you will find out later, it basically is, but in a good way - and done up very nicely inside. I want to say it was a hotel or some sort of club... Whichever it was, it was filled with tourists and popular with the lookout point it had, and the food = delicious! It was an open buffet of all sorts of curries, fruits, salads and some Western food.

My Passions Fruit | Sri Lanka - buffet curry

The lookout point was stunning and overlooks a waterfall. You can never get tired of the landscape of Sri Lanka and the vividness of green everywhere you go.

My Passions Fruit | Sri Lanka

After arriving in Kandy, we switched our car to a local tuk tuk to take us up the small, narrow roads to our hotel - Amaara Sky Hotel. It was a reasonably nice hotel with very good service, as expected. My cousin and I stayed in a standard room as it was fine for a place to rest our head. The views from the room were amazing, especially if you got up soon after sunrise and saw the mountainous fog lifting (upcountry areas will be a few degrees colder as you're up in the mountains).

My Passions Fruit | Kandy

I've been to Kandy before and last time was during the Esala Perahera festival - one of the oldest Buddhist festivals in the country. One of the main events is to see one of the elephants, brightly decorated, carrying the buddha's tooth (usually kept in the Temple of the Tooth). One of the prime spots for viewing this festival is the Queen's hotel on one of the balconies, perfectly overlooking the main street to view the night festival. It is very popular so be sure to book early, whether you take the hotel or pick a spot on the side of the street.

The Temple of the Tooth is a must to visit. They have guides on hand, as with many places, so I recommend sourcing a good one. They have a wealth of information and can get you through some of the busy places - particularly trying to view the tooth relic, which is not easy! Walking around the temple and its grounds are done barefoot as with all temples around the country, and you can pick up some lotus flowers to place in the sacred areas, out of respect.

My Passions Fruit | Temple of the Tooth, Kandy

There are some small museums to visit in the temple grounds including the one housing Raja the elephant, who carried the sacred tooth relic for around 50 years during the Perahera festival.

My Passions Fruit | Temple of the Tooth, Kandy

If you're wanting to get your fill of cultural experiences in Kandy, getting yourself into a Kandyian dance performance will be a treat. It's very lively, acrobatic with backflips and spinning dishes, and great Sri Lankan music.

 

After some much needed time back in Colombo, our last trip was down south to Galle and Koggala. Galle Fort is a historic Portuguese fort from the 1500s, which later got extended by the Dutch after their takeover of the island.

My Passions Fruit | Galle Fort

It's a great place to walk around, whether it be through the ruins or in town. It's a big tourist spot so it can get very busy but with this, there are some great places to eat and shop.

My Passions Fruit | Galle

Koggala is not too far away from Galle city and runs right along the coast. Our time here was pure relaxation and family time. We stayed at a villa - Octopus Reef - which had a great secluded location, own beach access, walking distance to main beaches either way and serviced with its own chef to do barbecues, or any other food you request.

My Passions Fruit | Koggala

On the upstairs covered deck, we finished days with stunning sunsets and watching the stilt fishermen wait for their catch.

My Passions Fruit | Koggala, Stilt fishermen

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